Butter Pie Crust

Pie crust has a bad reputation, but it needn’t. There are only three absolute requirements to any pie crust: fat, flour, and liquid and once you understand the science behind it you’ll be making kick-ass pie crusts every time, all the time.

The first step of pie crust making is very much like the first step of biscuit making. The instructions will tell you to “cut the butter into the flour” or something like that. What that means is to work the fat component into the flour component to produce little blobs of fat coated in flour of varying sizes ranging from crumb-sized to pea-sized. This one essential step begets two delightful characters: Mr. Tender and Madame Flaky.

Meet Mr. Tender By coating the flour granules in some fat you are preventing them from touching other flour granules and therefore preventing the formation of gluten and making a tender-not-chewy crust.

Hello, Madame Flaky By coating the fat blobs in flour you are setting the stage for flakiness galore. When the flour-covered fat blobs are rolled out flat, they create microscopic layers of fat and flour. Imagine a sedimentary rock. Once it goes into the oven, those fat blobs melt, leaving behind air pockets and that’s what makes a flaky crust.

Viola! It’s that easy!

Well, almost that easy.

Pie Rulez! (Or, Pie Rules)

There are three moments where people commonly screw up pie dough:

1. The fat melts before it’s properly blended into the flour. To make the microscopic strata within the dough you need to have the little fat blobs. Melted fat won’t make blobs. The remedy is to keep your flour and fat cold while cutting in and if it starts to soften too much to make blobs, then stick it back in the fridge a while to chill again.
2. The dough is worked too much after the liquid is added. Gluten can only form in the presence of liquid so you must be very careful to add just enough liquid to bring the pie dough together into a loose ball and do not knead the dough. Once you’ve added enough water to make it hold its shape, wrap it tightly in plastic and refrigerate for 30 minutes or longer.
3. Trying to roll the dough right away. It’s imperative that you let the dough ball rest in the refrigerator before rolling it. The chill and the set time allows whatever gluten has formed to relax, making the dough less elastic and easier to roll out. Refrigerate it for about 30 minutes. You may refrigerate it longer (up to 24 hours) but let it warm and soften a little on the counter before trying to roll it. Attempting to roll out rock hard, ice cold dough will make you hate pie crust forever.

Fats Make a Difference

The fat you use might be butter, shortening, lard, coconut oil (vegan), or a combination of any of those. Each of these have a different optimal working temperature range, above which they become too soft to properly cut into the flour. The wider and higher the range, the easier the fat is to work with.

Butter adds great flavor, but its working temperature range is around 58-68 degrees F which makes it trickier for first-timers to use successfully (unless you live in a very cold place!). Keeping your flour and butter and even your mixing bowl cold while you’re cutting in is the key to success when using all butter as I do in the video. All-butter crusts (Pâte Brisée) are slightly sweet and absolutely perfect for sweet pies. Using a high-fat, European-style butter will make for an even flakier crust!
Shortening is made from hydrogenated oils (cottonseed and/or soybean). Hydrogenation makes oils more heat-stable; therefore shortening has a much wider working range of 53-85 degrees F, so it’s easier to get flaky layers of fat and flour without the pressure of worrying that it’s getting too soft to work into the dough properly. If your main goal is flakiness, using all or part shortening is a fool-proof way to achieve that. Personally I find the flavor off-putting and not worth the easy flake.
Lard is rendered pork fat and has a range of 58-75 degrees and makes a great substitute for shortening if you’d rather stay away from hydrogenated oils. Look for leaf lard at specialty stores, which has a milder flavor than the industrially produced tubs o’ lard next to the shortening at the grocery store.
Coconut oil is a great option for making vegan pie crusts without resorting to artificially hydrogenated oils. I recommend using virgin coconut oil (as opposed to refined and bleached – yuck!) which has a working range of about 70-76 degrees F in my experience, which is a narrow window but fortunately also around room temperature. Virgin coconut oil will give your pastry a coconut flavor, though, so it’s not a good option for the weirdos who hate coconut. (wink wink)

Margarine can be used, but expect a similar flavor as with shortening, but with less flakiness. Liquid oils won’t do any kind of flake-action at all.

Now that you have the knowledge, make use of it. Here’s my BEST PIE CRUST RECIPE.
Butter Pie Crust Recipe

 

5.0 from 1 reviews

Homemade Pie Crust
 
Prep time

Total time

 

Serves: 1

Ingredients
  • 1 cup all purpose flour
  • 1 teaspoon baking powder
  • ⅓ cup (5½ tablespoons) cold butter or other fat
  • about ¼ cup water, but possibly less

Instructions
  1. Chill the flour and baking powder in a bowl by freezing it for 10-15 minutes.
  2. Begin with very cold butter, talking real cold, like “put it in the freezer for 10 minutes” cold. Dice it with a knife into cubes about ⅓” (1 cm) across; they don’t have to be exact.
  3. Add the butter cubes to your dry ingredients and use your fingertips or a fork to toss them around to get each cube separated and coated in flour. Now you’ll begin the cutting in. The object here is to get the butter cubes broken up into smaller and smaller bits, each coated in flour.
  4. Continue until the largest pieces are about half the size of a pea and the smallest ones are crumb-like.
  5. Add the ice water a tablespoon at a time and mix swiftly and gently. Add just enough water to allow the dough to form into a loose ball.
  6. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate 30 minutes.
  7. Roll the dough out to the desired size (12″ circle for a 9″ pie pan) on a floured surface with a floured rolling pin. Turn it frequently to maintain its shape and prevent sticking.
  8. Gently roll it over the pin and transfer to your pie pan. Wiggle it into the corners of the pan, don’t press.
  9. Turn the edges up and crimp with your fingers.

Notes
This makes one 9″ pie crust. Double the recipe for a two-crust pie such as a fruit pie.

 

Now you have a pie crust to use in whatever manner you desire! One yummy way is to make a quiche!

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{ 12 comments… read them below or add one }

Bev Weidner November 22, 2011 at 11:57 am

I want to eat this. Raw.

Reply

Hilah November 23, 2011 at 11:53 am

DON’T DO IT, BEV!
Put pie in it first.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Reply

Great Stone Face November 22, 2011 at 1:40 pm

I have a food processor. Can I cut the butter into the flour by pulsing it? I have an idea to freeze the processor blade and bowl first. Also, what should I do about the surface I roll the raw crust out on.

In a related question, I once made savory elephant ears (palmiers) from premade frozen puff pastry. They turned out tough, not flaky. Any ideas what I might have done wrong?

Reply

Hilah November 23, 2011 at 11:53 am

Hi GSF!
I’ve never used a food processor but I think it should work fine, especially if you freeze the blade. I’d mix in the water by hand though so you don’t risk overworking the dough. I just roll it out on my counter with plenty of flour. Any smooth surface will work: formica, marble or granite, if you’re counter tops are butcher block or something rough I’d recommend rolling the dough out between floured wax paper sheets.

As far as your palmier puzzle, I admit I’ve never made them, but the process is basically rolling the dough up into a heart-shaped spiral and then slicing off thin cookies to bake, right? Your knife may have compressed the layers instead of cutting cleanly through them so that they didn’t flake apart. Or perhaps you had to add too much extra flour when you rolled the dough out?

Reply

Marfa March 22, 2012 at 10:15 am

I usually make a pie crust using butter as above…using my food processor, it comes out nicely, even though I don’t usually freeze the blade…but I will next time and I’m going to try this with coconut oil! Our Trader Joe’s started selling 16 oz. jars of virgin organic coconut oil for just $5.99. I ♥ it.

Reply

Hilah March 23, 2012 at 9:38 am

Hi Marfa!
Yeah, food processor is the way to go with coconut oil. Man, I wish we had a TJ around these parts…
Have fun cooking!

Reply

JessicaAFM July 16, 2012 at 9:43 pm

Thanks for saving me yet again LOL The first pie crust recipe (from a different site) I used didn’t work out to well but then I wondered what the heck was wrong with me. Ah I know, I should have looked for a tried and true recipe on Hilah’s site. This worked perfect for my homemade turkey pot pie and it was easy peasy. I used my pastry blender but stuck it in the freezer first. Worked fabulously. Thanks!

Reply

Hilah July 17, 2012 at 10:29 am

Hi JessicaAFM!
Thank you! I’m so glad you had success with pie crust this time. :) And now you got me a’hankerin’ for a pot pie!

Reply

Jess September 18, 2012 at 12:37 pm

Another way to help with the potential overworking and glutins is vodka instead of 1/2 of the water. I do plan on using this recipe for my next pie, maybe for pot pie later this week.

Reply

Hilah September 18, 2012 at 2:02 pm

Thanks, Jess! I’ve heard of that trick but haven’t tried it. I made a wine pastry for empanadas once and that was very flaky, too. I’ll try to remember to do the vodka trick for my holiday pies.

Reply

Cecilia January 30, 2013 at 10:21 pm

I just made this crust for the fried apple pies and they turned out great!!! I have been trying to master a good flaky crust for a while now and haven’t been able to get it quite right but this crust is amazing! I didn’t realize how simple it was to get it so flaky! Thank you so much for sharing this!!!

Reply

Hilah January 31, 2013 at 11:29 am

Yay! That makes me SO HAPPY, Cecilia! :) My quest is complete! I hope you share your new knowledge with friends and family.

Reply

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